Tuesday, 8 November 2011

MALA STRANA

We arrived in Prague at about 3pm. We stopped first in Dresden and strolled the streets before buying coffee and cake. We were met at our apartment in the Mala Strana of Prague by Zeki who saved us a park in the street out front. Once we settled in, we were amazed by the size of the place. It has four king-size beds and takes up a whole floor of the four-storey building.  And for $100 Australian a night, we cannot believe our luck. (See photo on blog – yellow building on right, with two small balconies). On our first night, on Zeki’s recommendation, we dined around the corner at Olympia Restaurant. We ate traditional Czech food, which was hearty and delicious. Karin’s traditional goulash was a challenge, but my goose and red cabbage with potato dumplings and Ollie’s juicy steak with potato smash were devoured. Yesterday, after a good night’s sleep, while the cherubs slept in, I got up at dawn to watch the sunrise from the Chares Bridge. There was clear sky and few tourists as I embraced the many Kodak moments. Later in the morning, we all set out to explore the old town. We walked the 10 minutes from our apartment to Charles Bridge, which would take us to the old town. This time, the bridge was packed with tourists. The prefect weather had brought them out in droves and we had to zigzag across the cobbled bridge and past the numerous artisans and musicians who plied their trades.  One in particular stood out over the others. He was younger, and more bohemian than the rest. As we approached, we heard his recorder playing a traditional Czech tune. On closer inspection, it became apparent he was playing the instrument with his right nostril. Then, without missing a beat, he continued playing with one hand while picking up a didgeridoo with his other hand. He then removed the recorder from his nose and began blowing the didgeridoo before picking up a set of bongo drums to keep beat with himself. A very postmodern performance. Since then, we have tried to avoid the tourist areas and begun to explore more widely. We got off the beaten path today and tracked down the city’s vintage shops. This has turned out to be a good option because the shops are usually located in the more interesting areas of each city.  In Paris, they were in the Marais, in Berlin, in the Mitte, and in Prague, they have been dotted around the periphery of the city and away from the crowds. We have also discovered the utilitarian transport system, which has taken us further afield. The trams are particularly good and offered excellent views. Later today, we plan to head up the hill to the palace and then on to dinner at the Cantina Mexican restaurant which has been reviewed as the best Mexican restaurant in Prague. After three days of exploring, I also wouldn’t be surprised if it was the only one.   

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